I’m going to show how to install a cavity sliding door. There are great to use in small rooms where you don’t have room for a swinging door. The tools required for this job are the sliding cavity unit itself, a hand saw, a finishing gun, you’ll need a drill and drill bits, a phillips head and a flat head screwdriver, a pencil for marking, you need a level and a square, you need a tape measure, a hammer, a chisel, and of course your safety equipment.
Before we get started, I’d like to just point out that we are putting this into an empty stud wall. If you have already got plaster walls, you obviously going to have to cut away the plaster. Usually you’d do this laying the door on the ground, but because of the confined space that we’re in, I need to do it from a ladder standing above the door. So first, I’m going to take the sliding track. I’m going to knock out the spacer at the top of the door and I’m going to insert the track into the cavity, and then I’m going to screw the track to the frame.
Now that the tracks secured to the top of the frame, I’m going to put two nails down into the uprights on this end. We’re going to then put the other piece of the frame into the track, square it up, and put two nails through that end to hold it in place. So now that the frame’s together, all that’s left to do is pop it in the stud wall and see if it fits. We just need to make sure that it’s flush to the outside of this stud wall, so when you put the plaster on, there’s no bulging in the wall.
Now that the frame’s flush to the stud wall, we’re going to fix it in place with a nail gun. When you’re fixing this side, it’s important to leave a mil gap in front of this stud, so that when you put the plaster on the wall, it will be flushed with the outside of the frame and then your arc will just sit nicely over the top. To keep the door straight, we’re going to pack out behind the door in this gap, which will stop the movement, so when the door closes, there’s no gap between the frame and the door. To do that, we’re going to use masonite packers, we’re going to snap them to the length of the stud, and we’re going to pack out. To find my measurement for the packers, I’m going to use one of the other studs, hold the packer up against it, put my finger there, and then snap the packer so it’s not going to stick out on either side. That way when we put the packers in, it fits nice and flush inside the frame. Now we’re going to pack out the frame using a Masonite packers.
We just need to make sure that the front of the frame is level, so your door’s not on an angle when you close it. Remembering that the front of your frame needs to be 10 mil out from your stud to allow for the plaster. We’ll do this a couple more times so that we’ve got support at both the top and the bottom as well as through the middle. Okay. So now we are going to attach the roller base plates to the door. They’re going to attach to the top of the door, and they go 80 mil from the end of the door, and they sit in the center of the door. So we’re going to fix them now. Set the square to 80 mil, and then mark out where the base plate needs to go. Now that we’ve marked, we’re going to fix the base plates to the center of the door. So I’ve put both base plates on, they’re both exactly the same distance from the edge of the door, one at each end of the door. Usually these rollers are fitted up inside the track at the top of the door, but just to show you how they fit, I’m going to do it on the door as it is. So you take your roller, and you use the pin at the end, you slide it into the base plate, like so, and then you use locking pin on the side to hold the roller in place.
Now I’m going to put the roller back into the sliding cavity, and we’ll fit the door as it will be in the cavity. Now that the roller and the base plates are attached and they’re in the track and the door can slide, the last thing to do is adjust the height and the plumb of the door using the spanner provided. The last part of the process is to put the door guides on, so the door can slide evenly in and out of the cavity in it without hitting the sides. So you can see that the guide for the door is angled. The thick part of the guide sits on the floor, and it angles itself up to fit on the bottom of the door. So the guide sits right at the base touching the floor, and then you fix it in place on both sides. I’m just going to do the exact same thing, just on the other side of the door. Now the door’s fully installed and it can slide freely. The last thing left to do is get the plasters to come in, plaster all of the walls, and then we just put the cover strip up at the front to hide all of the rollers behind. And that’s it, job done.
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